Puna de Atacama Dossier (OLD copy for reference only)
SummaryThis is an excellent choice of expedition for very fit people who want to climb some extremely high mountains in a remote setting without any technical difficulty. This trip will focus on the high peaks of the Chilean Puna that were climbed at the time of the Incas, many of which still have extensive archaeological ruins on their summits. |
Outline Itinerary |
|
| Day 1-2 | Flight via Santiago to Calama |
| Day 3-6 | Travel to San Pedro and acclimatisation walks. Tatio geysers. |
| Day 7-8 | Ascent of the active Volcan Lascar |
| Day 9 | Rest |
| Day 10-12 | Pili ascent |
| Day 13 | Rest |
| Day 14-17 | Llullaillaco ascent |
| Day 18-19 | Travel back to Calama and home |
| Day 18-24 | Ojos del Salado or Tres Cruces extension |
Inca ruins on the summit of Llullaillaco, Puna de Atacama
INTRODUCTION TO THIS EXPEDITION
This expedition, running in January 2009, will be based in the remote Puna de Atacama of Chile where we will climb some of the highest peaks, focussing particularly on those with Inca ruins on or near the summits. Many of the highest peaks in this area were climbed by the Incas in the 1400's for religious reasons and they built some fairly impressive shrines on the summits, the ruins of which can still be seen on many peaks.
Our main expedition is a 19 day trip to climb two of the highest peaks the Incas climbed - Llullaillaco 6739m is in one of the most remote parts of the northern Chilean Puna on the border with Argentina. Our other main summit, Pili 6046m, is in a more accessible part of the Andes near the road from Argentina to Chile over the 4700m high Paso de Jama.
We are offering two different five-day optional extensions after the main expedition. One is to climbed the second highest peak in the Andes, Ojos del Salado 6893m. We will do this from the Chilean side, starting from the end of a 4x4 track at 5200m, with a high camp at about 5800m. The final summit pinnacle on the Chilean side is a scramble at about Difficult grade, with fixed ropes in place. Due to demand from previous clients who have already climbed Ojos del Salado we are also offering an extension to the peaks of Tres Cruces when we will plan to climb both Tres Cruces Sur 6748m and Tres Cruces Central 6629m from a high camp in the col that separates them.
We have now run many previous expeditions to this area of the Andes, including two previous successful trips to Ojos del Salado. We have an extensive knowledge of the area. Most of the peaks in this part of the Andes involve no technical climbing - the ascents on this expedition are suitable for strong hillwalkers, though previous expedition experience is preferred due to the demanding weather and camping conditions. There is a short section of easy rock-climbing on the Ojos del Salado optional extension, and since it is at 6800m previous climbing/scrambling experience is recommended for this extension.
This expedition offers a unique opportunity to climb big and easy peaks in what is still a very quiet part of the Andes.
PUNA DE ATACAMA
The plateau of the Puna de Atacama lies on the border between Chile and Argentina and includes a huge area over 4000m above sea level. There are still many unclimbed peaks of over 5000m in this remote area, although due to poor information it can be difficult to find out about previous ascents by local climbers. Also many of the peaks in the area were climbed at the time of the Inca empire, when the mountains were worshipped as gods by the inhabitants and were frequently ascended in order to make sacrifices.
The Puna is one of the most beautiful and haunting places in the Andes, compared by many to the high plateau of Tibet. The scenery is a bit desolate for some, but the huge open spaces, clear air and big blue skies leave a deep impression on everyone who visits this area. The Puna is still a remote place, although the area is now opening up due to the improving relations between Chile and Argentina and new mineral exploration in the area. However the landscape is a long way from being spoiled yet and the wild scenery of this remote place will make this a memorable expedition.
WILDLIFE
Despite the fact that at first sight there is almost nothing to eat in the high barren plateau of the Puna de Atacama the area is very good for seeing some of South Americas unusual wildlife, particularly on the long jeep drives into and out of the mountains. Vicuña and guanaco are wild relatives of the llama and are seen frequently. The rhea, a species of South American ostrich is also common in the foothills. On the lagoons there are flamingos and other species of birds. With a bit of luck we'll maybe even see a condor circling the peaks.
Condors are frequently seen in the Puna, this photo is from our 2005 expedition.
SANTIAGO
Depending on flight schedules we may have time to see some of Santiago, the capital of Chile at the start or end of the expedition. It is a large city of some five million people but is one of the most pleasant and relaxing cities in South America. The people are friendly and there are many pavement cafes, parks and wide avenues.
CALAMA
Calama is a small provincial capital at the foot of the Andes about 2000m above sea level. It is the nearest access city with an airport for the northern Chilean Puna. We'll fly here from Santiago and then spend a day in town to purchase supplies before travelling on to the remote villages of the Puna de Atacama. Calama is a rather neglected town mainly a service town for the huge copper mine at Chuquicamata, but nevertheless it is a nice enough place with a pleasant central plaza and several good steak restaurants.
SAN PEDRO de ATACAMA
We'll mainly be based in the pleasant wee village of San Pedro de Atacama at 2500m on the shores of the Salar de Atacama for this expedition. San Pedro is a pleasant touristy little village, and there is plenty to see and do while we acclimatise her, including trips to see flamingos on the massive salt flat of the Salar de Atacama and a trip to the famous Tatio Geysers at over 4000m above sea level, where we will overnight to help with acclimatisation.
VOLCAN LASCAR 5641m & VOLCAN PILI 6046m
Our first two big peaks are located on the high plateau above the Salar de Atacama near the town of San Pedro de Atacama. Volcan Lascar is a highly active volcano that is an easy 1 or 2 day ascent from the end of a track, provided of course it is not too active...!. Pili is an easy ascent over 2 or 3 days from a base camp at the south end of the Salar de Pujsa. Pili is a steep conical volcano that is very rarely climbed.
Pili volcano and wild vicuñas, Chilean Puna.
LLULLAILLACO 6739m
Our major summit on the main expedition is Llullaillaco (pronounced more or less like Yu-Yai-Yako), a remote peak on the Chile-Argentina border southeast of San Pedro de Atacama. Llullaillaco was one of the most important religious peaks climbed by the Incas in the 1400's and they built some fairly impressive shrines on the summit, the ruins of which can still be seen today. There are small buildings, altars and staircases in the summit complex. Several mummified bodies of sacrifice victims were excavated by American archaeologist John Rheinhard in the late 1990's as documented in his book "The Ice Maiden" and in a National Geographic film.
After a long bumpy and dusty drive from San Pedro we'll climb Llullaillaco by the Northwest side from the Zorritas base camp in 2-3 days. There is a small glacier on this side of the peak, but ropes etc are not necessary.
The northwest side of Llullaillaco on our first expedition there in 1993.
OPTIONAL EXTENSION - OJOS DEL SALADO 6893m
As an alternative extension we are offering an ascent of Ojos del Salado from the Chilean side. This will take two or three days with camps at 5200m and 5900m, and a quite tricky scramble up the final pinnacle. See the picture below. We are also offering an alternative extension to Tres Cruces. Please note we need a minimum of two clients to run either of our optional extensions.
At 6893m Ojos is the worlds highest active volcano and is the second highest peak in the Andes. SRTM data from the year 2000 has apparently confirmed (at least in our eyes) that Ojos del Salado is higher than Pissis, though we suspect it's height is closer to 6870m than to the figure given here from the Chilean maps. It was first climbed by a Polish expedition in 1937. The crater is blown open to the north/northwest, but there are still active fumaroles and a strong smell of sulphur on the summit.
Ojos del Salado from the Laguna Verde to the north.
OPTIONAL EXTENSION - TRES CRUCES SUR 6748m and CENTRAL 6629m
On this expedition we are offering a five day extension to climb the two Tres Cruces peaks, which lie on the Chile Argentina border just west of Ojos del Salado. We'll climb them both (probably on different days) from a high camp at about 6000m in the col which separates them. it will take us one or two days to reach the col form the road in Chile to the west. Please note we need a minimum of two clients to run either of these optional extensions.
Tres Cruces Sur (on the left) and Central (on the right) from Ojos del Salado to the east
FITNESS AND EXPERIENCE NEEDED
Though there is no difficult climbing involved in the ascents planned on this expedition, climbing to such heights is still a serious matter because of the lack of oxygen at high altitude. We will allow plenty of time for expedition members to acclimatise to the altitude but because of the nature of the expedition we recommend clients to have previous successful experience at altitudes of 5000m+.
For this expedition good hillwalking/mountaineering fitness is obviously important, but is not enough on its own. For high altitude expeditions clients particularly need good cardiopulmonary (heart and lung) fitness. This can only be maintained, or obtained, by a program of intensive exercise such as sprinting (not jogging), squash or sprint cycling. This should be done in small doses (e.g. half an hour every other day) over a period of at least two months
Once out in the mountains we will be largely unsupported and therefore will have to carry expedition weight (20kg) rucksacks for a day or so here and there to establish high camps on the mountains, so some recent experience of backpacking is essential.
HARDSHIPS
On this type of expedition there are inevitably some hardships which clients must be prepared to face in return for the great rewards of success climbing such big mountains. Customers should be prepared for cold nights camping and be prepared for very windy and dusty weather at times out in the mountains. Customers must be able to carry their share of expedition equipment above base camp. As we'll be a long way from the nearest supermarket we will all have to put up with tinned and dehydrated food in our diet during our time in the desert. All customers are expected to help with the routine work of this type of expedition; pitching tents, cooking and washing up
CLIMATE
The climate at altitude in the Puna de Atacama is very cold and extremely dry. In the mountains temperatures can fall to -20ºC at night. During the day in the mountains it can feel very warm in the strong sun, but it can also be bitterly cold and windy. It should be dry all the time we are in South America, though there is a slight chance of a snow flurry in the mountains. As we are near the tropics come prepared for 10 hours of darkness every night
Temperatures in the valleys around Calama and in other low lying areas will be a very pleasant 25-30ºC during the day.
EXPEDITION ORGANISATION
Our expeditions fall somewhere between the large, rigidly organised expeditions of the larger companies and the frustrations, hassles and uncertainties of independent travel in an unfamiliar country. Our expeditions are designed to be small and flexible. The expedition will be co-ordinated, organised and lead by us, but we will consult and involve the expedition members when planning the details of the trip.
Please note however that the leaders decision is final where the safety of the group or any member is in jeopardy; for example where retreat or diversion is necessary due to illness or bad weather.
Hotel chaos in the leaders room just before leaving for Ojos del Salado (optional extensions), "Andes" expedition 2005.
EXPEDITION LEADER
At the time of printing the leader for this expedition has not been decided. Please call for further details nearer the departure time.
EXPEDITION SIZE
The minimum number of customers we need to run this expedition is three. The maximum size of the expedition will be six customers plus leader.
FLIGHTS
Flights from the UK to Calama via Santiago cost from £900-£1100 but are currently rising sharply. We normally arrange these for you through our travel agents, Journey Latin America, (ATOL 2828) at very competitive prices. We make no charge for this service and many customers find it convenient as we then all fly out on the same plane.
If you prefer you can arrange your own flights to fit in with the expedition itinerary. Please note that if booking flights yourself it is better to pay only a deposit in the short term in case we do not have sufficient fully paid customers to run the expedition.
VISAS
Visas are not necessary for British citizens, but you should have a full passport valid for at least six months from the date of travel. If you will not be travelling on a British passport you must let us know when you book.
INSURANCE
All clients must be insured for medical costs and repatriation in an emergency. We recommend having insurance for baggage, personal liability and cancellation as well. If you would like advice on insurance please ask. Please bring an extra copy of your insurance certificate on the expedition for the leader.
ACCOMMODATION
While we are staying in Calama and San Pedro accommodation will be in clean and secure hotels with hot showers. We normally use small family run hotels with a friendly atmosphere. If we have to stay in smaller villages we will use whatever lodging is available; this is usually perfectly clean in South America, but luxuries like hot water may not be available. When out in the desert we use modern lightweight tents (supplied by us) - you'll need a warm sleeping bag and karrimat or thermarest. Because the climate is extremely dry we may bivvy out in the mountains under the stars on a few occasions; it is a great experience.
HEALTH, HYGIENE AND SECURITY
Chile is the most well developed country in South America and the standard of hygiene is generally as good as at home. You would be unlucky to get an upset stomach or diarrhoea. Vaccinations for tetanus, typhoid and polio are recommended. The country is very safe and relaxing to travel in; theft and muggings are as unlikely as they are in most British cities. Everyone who visits Chile is surprised by how much like a part of Europe the country is.
SAFETY AND RISK
This is an adventure holiday and all clients will be exposed to an element of risk by taking part in this itinerary. While we take all reasonable precautions to reduce risk it is neither possible nor desirable to completely eliminate these additional risks. It is important that you understand the risks involved before signing our booking form. We have identified the following areas as the principal additional risks of this itinerary. This is not a fully inclusive list - please ask if you would like to see a more detailed risk assessment of this itinerary before booking.
Driving, hotels and general safety : In Chile driving, fire standards and general safety standards are not as high as in Europe.
Extreme remoteness : You will be camping in a very remote area for an extended period and therefore obtaining medical assistance for any problem will be a slow process.
Minor slips and falls : due to steep, uneven and unstable ground.
Weather : The Puna de Atacama is occasionally affected by severe and sometimes dangerous storms. Forecasts are not so reliable.
Altitude : At high altitudes there is an increased risk of medical problems, most obviously altitude illness.
Mountain Hazards : In certain places you may be subjected to a slight risk of rock slips.
